I, like almost every knifemaker in Britain today, have been asked to make a knife for bushcrafting. Unlike most I have not succumed to making clones of the Ray Mears Woodlore. Instead I have developed a range of knives that in my opinion are far better by design (and depending on the maker, also by manufacture!).
My primary knife to rival the Woodlore is the GreenMan. It is about the same size and shape as the Woodlore, which is a common design seen in using knives for thousands of years, and can't be beat for general bushcraft type tasks. See below why I believe that my GreenMan is better than the Woodlore clones!
Don't forget that most of the knives I make are also suitable for the tasks a blade is put to in bushcraft. Just because I haven't put it in here it doesn't mean that it is any less use! This is a particularly good point considering that I normally have a very long waiting list for my GreenMan knife ;-)
What makes my GreenMan better than the Woodlore Clones?
The Knife
Up to two thirds lighter due to the blade geometry and tapered tang
Stronger due to the heat treat and the nature of forged finished blades
Sharper - Range hardened blades can have harder and therefore longer lasting cutting edges
More rust resistant than other carbon steel knives. The forged finish creates a very low carbon outer surface that resists rust better. It's appearance also barely changes with time and use, unlike ground/polished blades.
Easier slicing -due to the geometry of the blade it will slice and cleave with less resistance.
Protected tip. The spine near the tip has been rounded off to make it more comfortable when carving. It also means that the back of the knife won't mark a work piece when peeling bark (for example).
Less losable. The 2008 version contains TWO Tritium glow in the dark phials set infront of brass mirrors. The idea is that when you are rushing to set up camp before nightfall you can see where you put your knife down (we all do it!) you can also tell which is the sharp end!
By having a blade that is marginally shorter (but no less useful), the handle is a little longer and so more comfortable in most hands, without the overall knife being any longer than the Woodlore
The fuller, more shapely handle feels more comfortable and secure in the hand.
The special resin inset into the underside of my handles is more user friendly in cold weather as it is warm to the touch (like the oiled natural wood handles) and when wet it adds a little extra grip.
The Sheath
Free hanging sheath will not jab you in the side when you sit down or get caught up on the undergrowth.
Sheath can be worn on the belt, around the neck or even upside down, just by threading a thong through the appropriate hole/loop.
Matched firesteel is set lower down on the sheath (moulded to fit the handle and not the shaft to prevent loss) so that you don't grab the steel when you reach for your knife.
Finally, until I become world famous, it costs less than the original Woodlore!
- 4" high carbon steel blade
- Native hardwood handle
- Tritium (glow in the dark) inserts
- Large ferro rod with matching handle
- 4.5mm veg tanned leather sheath
Basic Model (left)
£230
GreenMan Pro (right)
£260
Billhooks
A variety of patterns and sizes can be made, prices start at £70
Carving hooks
The compound curves of these hooks make for cleaner finishing cuts and faster stock removal than a more uniform or ?-shaped hook knife. For general spoon carving I suggest the tighter curve (right), while the more open curve is more suited to finishing cuts.
Available in left or right handed. Not double edged as they are too dangerous, sorry
£35 each
£15 blade only
Traditional firesteels as used with a piece of flint. Those pictured here are representative of the styles that I habitually make, though I can make pretty much any shape and size you wish.
Top row (left to right):
Mini steel (striking edge about 1" long) £10
Dog Tag firesteel (can also be used with ferro rods) £12
Sometimes a general-purpose knife is not the right tool for the job, so here are a range of others that i regularly make. Once again, these are not exclusively 'Bushcraft' tools, but items borrwed from other crafts.
If you have a tool or task in mind, but don't see anything suitable here then get in touch and I will see what I can do.
Fire Lighting
Tools and materials to help you with your fire lighting. (Personally, I prefer a gas lighter and a bottle of meths!)
Ferrocerium Firesteels
AKA Ferro Rods and Swedish Firesteels. There are two manufacturers of these: cheaper poorer Chinese rods and the better more expensive Austrian version. Light My Fire (ie Ray Mears prefered supplier) use the Austrian ones, as do I.
The blanks measure 9mm diameter and approx 75mm long. I can fit any type of handle you wish, typically it is an antler or horn tip or a turned wood. When asked to fit a ferro rod to a knife I match the handle material to that of the knife. I also have rods with a 'lump' of wood attached ready for you to shape yourself; this can be of pretty much any wood you like.
Blanks £5
Blank with lump £7
Antler/horn tip £10
Turned wood £15
Tinder Pouch
Made from thick suede and hand sewn, these pouches have to small pockets and a large space behind them for your fire lighting kit. The pouch as folded up measures about 6 1/2"x3 1/2"x2", but that varies depending on what is in it of course!
These come supplied stuffed wiith a range of tinders and ember-extenders. In this example there is a wad of char cloth, King Alfred's cakes and thislte down; but depending no what I have available there could be birch barck, honeysuckle bark, birch polypore pieces, etc.
£15
Pocket Auger
I've modified these auger bits to fit the needs of the bushcrafter. They are small, compact and can be fitted with a handle quickly in the woods.
Other than attching a tube to the top, I have ground and polished the flutes to prevent cutting your hands in use. I also regrind and sharpen the bits to make them cut almost effortlessly.
I stock these in 1/2" and 1" diameters, but can make them to any size that you require.
1/2" and 1" bits are both £20
Here are a variety of knives and other items that have been designed for use in Bushcraft, well sort of. Most of the items below are tools from other crafts and walks of outdoor life, but I have brought them together here as I am so often asked for them when I go to the various Bushcraft Shows and meets.
I’ve been selling stones onto people at shows and on my courses for some time, but the range of accessories has now grown to the point where they warrant a space on my website.
Convex Edge Sharpening
I have made these clever devices to help you to sharpen axes and other blades that have a convex edge. This block has a rubber backing that follows the curvature of your cutting edge, so making sharpening a true convex a doddle. The finesess of your edge can be tuned by the chjoice of grit paper placed on teh block. Should you be in need of a fine polished edge, then just turn the last paper over and apply stropping paste to the smooth side.
Each set comprises:
Block with foam backing and clamps
Hex key (stored in the side of the block)
4 strips each of abrasive paper (c120, 240, 500 and 1200 grit)
Instructions on how to use the system
£30
The GreenMan
- 2 1/2" - 3/4" high carbon steel blade
- Native hardwood handle
- Tritium (glow in the dark) inserts
- 4mm veg tanned leather sheath
Basic Model (left)
£180
Pro Model (right)
£210
The Pixie
- 11" carbon steel blade
- Native hardwood handle
- Tritium (glow in the dark) inserts
- 4.5mm veg tanned leather sheath
Basic Model (left)
£260
Woodsprite Pro (right)
£290
The Ent
Coming soon, a few NEW patterns...
Axes and Tomohawks
I make these in a variety of head sizes and styles ranging from 200g up to 800g (5-600g is a good weight for a hatchet or trade axe). I also offer a range of handle shapes, from straight to well shaped fawns foot.
Axes vary in price depending on size, style and the finish I take the head and handle to. Prices start at £100
Heads are available on there own.
- 3" high carbon steel blade
- Native hardwood handle
- Tritium (glow in the dark) inserts
- 4.5mm veg tanned leather sheath
Basic Model (left)
£200
Woodsprite Pro (right)
£230
The Woodsprite
Chinese Waterstones
I am now using and stocking these rather than the more commonly available Japanese stones (Ice Bear/Kingstone). Why? These are nicer to use, wear better, are wider (good for planes), come in a more senisible increment of grits and also happen to be cheaper!
Simply saturate with clean water before use and keep lubricated with water. When a hollow wears,just rub on a paving slab with sand until flat.
For general sharpening I suggest the 240/800 grit comnination. The only times that an edge of 5000 grit is needed is when sharpening fine push-cutting edges, such as carving knives and chisels (though 2000grit is nice on many knives).
Large stones are approx. 18cm x 6cm x 3cm
Small stones are approx. 9cm x 3cm x 3cm
240/800 grit stones: Large £20 Small £10
2000/5000 grit stones: Large £25 Small £12
Nagura Stone (30mm x 25mm x 65mm): £5
Leather Strop and Honing Compounds
The leather strop is the final stage in sharpening, and can bu used to touch up an edge between visits to a stone. By using a thin yet firm leather and backing it with wood, you are able to ensure a flat honing surface (vital if you have spent time perfecting a flat and consistant sharpening bevel!). The use of a loose belt like a barbour has the effect of ounding and potentially dulling an edge.
Honing compound/stropping pastes come in varying grades (see images for details) and are applied to the strop as needed.
