This page was last updated on: February 2, 2017
I started my business in 2003 with the intention of making the tools that could not be found by so many of the re-emerging crafts. Today I still do that and even though some factories (and other blacksmiths) have started to make these tools again, I don't often find one that is as good as the ones that I make! 

The materials I use are chosen to be the best for the job, so for cutting tools it is a spring steel (for heavy duty tools like billhooks) or a high carbon tool steel (chisels and the like); all of which are heat treated using MODERN techniques which allow for more control and repeatable results (ie better edges and toughness than more traditional methods). The handles and other wooden parts are sourced from my own woodland and cleft rather than sawn, so retaining more strength than those taken from a plank.

The tools shown here are just the ones that I make on a regular basis (and try to keep in stock), but over the years I have made all sorts of original and experimental tools for various craftspeople. So if you are looking for something particular but can't find anybody who makes it, then please get in touch as I'm sure I will be able to help :-) 

I am happy to supply you with just the metal parts in a ground but not honed state if you wish to fit your own handles. Not only does this make for a more personal tool, it reduces the cost to you

Many tools are used by multiple crafts, so please scroll through the other catagories listed (I may have put your tool in a different place! Afterall, a billhook is used by many crafts but I have put them in the Greenwood catagory)

Please click on the images to get a better view of the tool!

gallery and info on group knifemkaing courses
gallery and info on Bowmaking courses
Basic and bespoke blacksmithing courses
Tools for the Craftsman
Woodworking

I can supply superior replacement blades for planes and the like if you have an original I can copy. Equally if you require a bespoke shape carving tool, then I am happy to help
Over this coming winter I'm going to standardise the picture shapes/sizes to make things look better. That does mean that I have to make a new example of everything on this page! So, in the meantime please accept my apologies for the distorted and cropped thumbnails!
Socketed Bevel Edged chisels. a set of 1/4", 1/2" and 1" would be £150 complete with handles
Socketed firmer chisels. 

My far my preference when it somes to making chisels is to make them both socketed and straight sided (ie not bevel endged)
Tanged chisels based on some Anglo Saxon examples. These are not designed to be struck and have a slightly curved cutting edge
these gouges are based on some medieval examples and provide a very fine cutting action. The hooped and socketed gouge can be struck.
Chisels and Gouges

I can make these any size and configuration you like. Please state blade width, gouge sweep and internal or external bevel (if appropriate) when ordering. Blades only are supplied ground to an edge, but not honed.

Bevel edged blades only from £30 (1/4")
Firmer/straight edged blades only from £20 (1/4")

​Completed tools (handles and honed edges) add £20 for turned or £30 for carved.
gallery and info on Spear Making
gallery and info on Spear Making
Bowl Adze. after speaking to expert carvers about which elements of the best bowl adzes they like, I combined them and came up with this! 

2" wide cut, 550g (ish)
Flat adze. In this case, an internal bevel.
side view of the flat adze
Curved adze. In this case, an internal bevel, blade widthis 3" and it has a curve of a 16" circle
close up of the 3/4 closed socket, or dovetail if you prefer
This socketed style allows for  a light and very fast adze, such as preferred around the Pacific and Asia. The head can also have a straight handle fitted, turning it int a gouge.
this is a double bevelled adze with a compound curve to the edge (flatter in the centre than the ends). There is no defined internal or external bevel, rather the two surfaces very gently curve to make an end in the centre of the blade.
Adze

I can make these any size and configuration you like. Please state blade width, gouge sweep and internal or external bevel (if appropriate) when ordering. 

Bowl carving adze: £150          (£90 head only)

'Spooning' Adze: From £180    (£110 head only)​

Socketed adze from £110 (2 1/2")       (£55 head only)

Axes

I mostly make hatchets and small axes upto 1kg (2.2lbs) in weight. I also make small side axes, splitting axes and carving axes.  Prices start at £100  (£50 head only)

The pictures to the left are examples only, please see my 'knives' page above to see what I have available!
Drawknives & Shaves

Drawknives of any size and handle angle can be made, as can inshaves, outshaves and replacement blades for spokeshaves and planes.

Small Drawknife £75 
Replacement spokeshave blade £30
Billhooks

In a variety of shapes and sizes, but not double edged (I made one once, never again)

Prices start at £75
unlike other bowl hooks out there, these are MUCH stiffer (and heavier) and made from better steel at the edge. This means a tool that doesn't chatter, is easier to use and will hold an edge better than a normal 1/2" spring steel one
hooks can be made left handed, right handed, or double beveled internal bevel, external bevel, and with any size bend you like.
Turning tools

These are made from 14mm round steel with High Carbon steel cutting edges, so much beefier than the commonly available. It also means that you can do some adjustments to the angle of the tip by tweaking the softer shafts yourself (best ask me for advice before trying though!)

Hook tool blades only £50  
bottoming tool £40
Left are my preferred hooks with rustic stick handles. This offers some personalisation to be carried out by the user and keeps the cost down.

Right are my fully shaped handles. Some love them, some don't.
Wide and open (right) is good for cleaning a furrowed surface but not good for hollowing. The middle one is the best general purpose hook. The small hook is no longer available

Available in left and right or left handed
For bigger spoons or when you want more oompf in your carving hook. these are based on the Welsh Twyca and have a long handle that is braced against the forearm for extra leverage
standard twca hook, I can also make them with a larger radius or compund curve if desired.

Available in left or riht handed
Chip carving blade fitted into a large pencil like handle
Carving knives and hooks

Chip carving, spoon hooks, straight whittling knives of all shapes and sizes.  Please state which curve and whether you would like a left or right handed hook

Spoon Hook (rustic) £35     (blade only £25)
Spoon Hook (carved handle) £45   
Twca Hook £55  (blade only £40) 
Chip carvers £30 (please state blade shape)  (blade only £20)
Auger bits historically spoon augers come in two shapes. The round ended tip works well into side grain and is great for blind holes. The pointy end is better into end grain, so more suited to things such as shrink pots.
A simple branch handle for augers
An elaborate chest brace as used with augers dating back for much of the last 2000.
Drills and Augers

Mostly I make spoon augers, but I can also make reamers and spade bits to suit your size. Augers can be made with an ancient flat tang, an eye (as in 'scotch eyed auger'), hex or Jennings pattern

I can also provide simple branch handles or elaborate chest braces with brass bearings if requested. 

Spoon Auger (bit only) from £50 to £65  (3/4" to 2 1/2")
Simple handle  £25
Chest Brace handle  £60
Basketry and Weaving

When I started out making tools I was taken under then wing of renowned basket maker Linda Lemieux, so it was inevitable that the first tools I learnt to make were for rush and willow work. Since then I have begun making Gripfids for ply splitting and a variety of other basketry and weaving related crafts.
standard bodkin is 1/2" thick atthe handle whilst the larger one shown is 16mm. Any size can be made
some folk prefer to slide their willow down a fid instead of using a bodkin, esepcially when finishing off in tight spots.
Bodkins and Fids

My standard bodkin has a spike of 6" x 1/2", but they can be made smaller and larger in any dimension. 

Standard Bodkin £20
Large Bodkin  £30
Standard Fid (1/2" wide) £25
Gripfids

Primarily used for ply split braiding. Also useful for knotwork and sewing objects such as books

3mm, 5mm and 6mm available

£10
Rush Threaders

large or small. The larger of the two is normally used for chair seating, but both are used in rush basketry and hats (depending on the size rush you are using naturally)

£15
Rapping Irons.

Made to traditional styling and with no rough edges and sharp corners that can damage your work.
I can also make a leather sleave to fit, which will help to protect the bark of you willow from bruising

Rapping Iron £20 
Leather Cover £5
Harvesting sickles

These are designed for harvesting your willow. No two will be the same, but it will have a ? shape that allows you to easily cut individual or multiple rods with a simple pulling action. Please let me know if you would prefer a more or less open shape and I can pick one out for you

£75
Shell Bodkin

Used for cane work 

£15

Bookbinding

Over the last few years I've been doing more and more work for the bookbinding communtity, ranging from making tools to teaching sharpening course aimed at the tools of the trade. Many of the tools are based on Victorian or Edwardian examples used daily in the bindery at Windser Castle.

I was introduced to the craft by my friend Dr Roderick Lane, Head of Book Conservations at the Royal Library, Windsor Castle:        ‘Thank you Dave for the wonderfully hand crafted knives. They needed no additional preparation or resetting and are superior to any other knife I have ever used. They are cheaper, sharper and easier to use than the Japanese equivalents.  Many thanks for your wonderful work.’



Paring Knives

Three shapes. English, Quarter Round and French.
Standard and large sizes

English Pattern  (standard) £30    (large) £35
Quarter Round   (standard) £30     (large) £35
French Pattern   (standard) £45     (large) £50
Gilding Scrapers

2" curved edge as standard then a choice of 1" or 1/2" on the other end. Available in 0.4mm or 0.7mm thickness

£5
Backing hammer

This example (made for the Royal Library) is no toy at 33oz (940g)

£70
Plough Blade

Can be made to fit most ploughs. I normally have 1/2" and 5/8" blades for Dryad ploughs in stock. I can also make replacement blades for other ploughs if you have an example to copy

1/2"  dryad  £35
5/8" dryad   £40
Sharpening

These are the tools that I use for most of my sharpening and are the items that I normally recommend to people when they ask. 
Twybil

Also known as a morticing knife, used for cutting out mortices. I currently make the more conventional triangular bladed form, but also an older chisel-bladed version. Both about 11" end to end

£75
shiny things
As of 2016, I am stocking these three new combinations. Same Chinese manufacturer of these great stones though.
please note, that the stones pictured are the old combinations, but this picture is to illustrate the size of the small compared to full sized blocks
Artificial nagura stone by Naniwa. Rub onto a fine waterstone during use to clean, degalze and provide a polishing slurry
hard to make a red block of stone look good!
Chinese Waterstones

I am now using and stocking these rather than the more commonly available Japanese stones (Ice Bear/Kingstone). Why? These are nicer to use, wear better, are wider (good for planes), come in a more sensible increment of grits and also happen to be cheaper!

Simply saturate with clean water before use and keep lubricated with water. When a hollow wears,just rub on a paving slab with sand until flat. 

For general sharpening I suggest the 600/2000 grit combination. The coarse combination (120/400) is ideal for VERY blunt or chipped edges. The finest stone (3000/8000) is perfect for fine edges such as wood carving tools, leather working knives and razors. 

Large stones are approx. 18cm x 6cm x 3cm
Small stones are approx. 9cm x 3cm x 3cm


120/400 grit stones:      Large  £15              Small  £8

600/2000 grit stones:   Large  £20              Small  £10

3000/8000 grit stones:    Large £25            Small £​12

Nagura Stone (30mm x 25mm x 65mm):       £5

Firn 1.2mm leather on a pine backing. Great for everyday sharpening and scandi ground carving knives without causiing round of the edge
blue is a good general purpose paste. White is for the finest edges on carving knives. Pink is pretty much the same as white but slower going
Leather Strop and Honing Compounds

The leather strop is the final stage in sharpening, and can bu used to touch up an edge between visits to a stone. By using a thin yet firm leather and backing it with wood, you are able to ensure a flat honing surface (vital if you have spent time perfecting a flat and consistant sharpening bevel!). The use of a loose belt like a barbour has the effect of ounding and potentially dulling an edge.

Honing compound/stropping pastes come in varying grades (see images for details) and are applied to the strop as needed.


Leather Strop (large c.12" x 2" x 1/2")     £8
Leather Strop (small c.5" x 1" x 1/2")      £4


Blue Compound ('Smurf Poo' Medium grade, fast paste) 50g       £2

Pink Compound ('Rosey Hone' Fine polish, fairly fast cut) 50g     £2

White Compound ('Bird Poo' Very fine polish for finest edges) 50g £3


Convex Sharpening kit

I have made these clever devices to help you to sharpen axes and other blades that have a convex edge. This block has a rubber backing that follows the curvature of your cutting edge, so making sharpening a true convex a doddle. The finesess of your edge can be tuned by the choice of grit paper placed on teh block. Should you be in need of a fine polished edge, then just turn the last paper over and apply stropping paste to the smooth side.


Each set comprises:

Block with foam backing and clamps
Hex key (stored in the side of the block)
4 strips each of abrasive paper (c120, 240, 600 and 1200 grit)

£50

Dog Legged and Hollowing Gouges

These gouges are specifically designed for hollowing bowls, cups and troughs. The dog legged gouge is most suited to finishing the bottoms rather than the actual hollowing. 

Blades only  £40
Rustic handled  £55
Carved handled  £65

Ideally suited to finishing the botoms of bowls and troughs.
various sweeps, angles and sizes, for one or two handed use. My favourite it the top one with a 1 1/" sweep and pretty curved shank. It is particular.ly good at hollowing bowls and cups
All tools are also available as blades only, allowing you to create your perfect tool
Picking knife

The traditional alternative to side cutters for cutting (or 'picking') ends flush with the basket.

£30
Pocket Auger

I've modified these auger bits to fit the needs of the bushcrafter. They are small, compact and can be fitted with a handle quickly in the woods.

Other than attching a tube to the top, I have ground and polished the flutes to prevent cutting your hands in use. I also regrind and sharpen the bits to make them cut almost effortlessly.

I stock these in approx.  1/2", 3/4", 1" and 1 1/4" diameters, but can make them to any size that you require. (length is the depth of a drilled hole)

12mm x 110mm    £20
19mm x 110mm    £25
25mm x 70mm      £25
25mm x 420mm    £30
32mm x 110mm    £30
32mm x 180mm    £30